32. development of design one

i started drawing the same thing (door latch) in different ways by drawing multiple ones beside each other, and drawingthe same element in various scales next to each other and thought about how i can use it as a placement design.


i tried using metallic thread to make satin stitches on a course denim swatch but it doesn't work as thread tends to snap so often. I also layered a thin cotton voile behind to try reverse cutwork with a thick fabric in front and something very thin behind


I re drew image on computer while thinking it as a placement on the bodice so its symmetrical and very precise as compared to the other designs.


(sample1)
experimented with complimentary tones of dark grey metallic embroidery threads couched down by black zig zags on grey cloth. threads going across to hold the metallic threads down lessen the amount of shine which i really liked.


(sample2)
tried layering 2 different coloured fabrics and doing cutwork with a braided trim around the shape which i thought turned out to look a lot like a flag and I should work on more textures.. although this could work better if I had sewn it nicely the lines could be perfectly clean.


(
sample3)
tried using yarns to make patterns on a plastic button which was an accurate size to the scale i wanted but is quite bulky (in relation to the flatbackground and wouldnt work as four pieces on the center front) and plastic frame couldnt be disguised.


(sample4)
experimentation on colourways, stitch types using machine


figuring out how the stitches will run.. on the fabric and I decided the silver on white looks very Christmas-like, clean and girlish which isn't exactly what I want so I am going to throw all white fabrics aside for this project.


tried 2 different ways of having a circle- reverse applique on the left with mesh below the fabric cuz I thought I could introduce some transparency but in small amounts and in a tulle but not chiffon so it doesn't become too girlish. and also applique in the same fabric on the right in the same fabric but turning the circle around so that the fabric grains contrast since the base fabric is a twill.



I thought of couching both the straight lines and circles so that it's one idea of couching down and having slightly raised effect with the embroidery yarns inside but it's 2 different ways of couching within one piece of fabric.

bought a nice grey fabric and tried to match the threads and tried out different stitches using another sewing machine ( my own which isn't as good as those in school as used above)
the grey metallic threads are less shiny than the dark grey ones as used before. i liked the contrast of different types of matt textures between the fabric , silver threads and grey sewing thread.

(sample5)


I used triple zig zag stitches before pulling the metallic yarns under them and secured using triple running stitches around the edges to add definition to the shape as well as hold the ends of the metallic threads down.


(sample6)

I should've used a hoop when I sewed, but this is how the final might look like with the length going across the front bodice and the smaller portions below would be around the tummy so it plays with proportion and is kind of like a modern breatplate with works with my theme.



garment proposal:
loose dress with placement on front bodie, top of design rests on neckline.

33. development of design two

adaptation from project one where pattern was rotated and an all over print

i am going to just use the single element the image was made up of for this new project

my very first attempt at making longarm stitches in stranded embroidery thread, padded satin stitching in cotton perle and couching method using metallic embroidery thread.



(sample7)
i wanted something quite pop-up so i tried satin stitches by using felt as a base and covering it with embroidery threads however the fluff of the felt piece could go thru the silver threads and they wouldn't rest well on the felt base, so i tried coilingwith an irregular yarn below but it took forever and it was far too ugly so i stopped.


(sample8)
tried making a lacey effect using ultra solvy but i couldnt figure out how it worked till much later and though most parts fell apart, some bits were quite strong but it was really hard controlling the machine on the bit of plastic solvy because the same bits need to have thread running up and down and over and over again to make it stable.


found a stitched named "coral" in the embroidery stitches bible by Barden. I liked the sound of it and tried it out to create the irregular textures as in the drawing i did.

(sample9)

(sample10)
used different types of yarns- cotton perle and woolly on cotton/polyester satin fabric to compare the differences in result but the same coral stitch method


(sample11)
metallic threads in zigzag mode on sewing machine which kept breaking despite attempts to lessen the failure by using cotton thread on the reverse side to lessen the tension and give extra strength but it continued breaking.


normal black thread works a lot better and does make quite nice vvariations in stitches and makes neat bold lines but its quite flat and i didnt like it, dont think i've ever bought anything in zagzag stitches from anywhere and dont see myself buying things made in this way.


better sticking to hand stitching.. i like the irregular raised effects



(sample11.5)
i also tried using the bondaweb to applique this but felt like the adhesive between the fabric stiffens it in a strange way which i dislike and did not use it any further for this design


(sample12)
i made the final piece for this project in tone on tone in quite a thin yarn, because it felt like having it in one colour helps to tame the kind of crazed lines, and makes it more sophisticated and not funky.



visualisation on paper- the bit of sewing I had dne with the rest of the lines in the drawing that would also be sewn in the same manner. placement semi hidden by arm, the jagged edges plays with the silhouette of the dress and figure of wearer.




garment proposal
design on sides of dress so seam would be on the two edges of the embroidered strips.

34. development of design three

adapted design from project 1



the diamond shapes in close up of one tile.


(sample13)
tried using bondaweb to applique but didnt stitch them down as it completely changed the handfeel of the base fabric and the appliqued parts are so stiff it makes a sound when bent


(sample13)
satin stitching , dividing the shape in segments to create facets using cotton perle on quite a thin fabric which i thought was quite interesting since light reflects it all in different directions adding interest but is seriously time consuming as a repeated pattern and since they are all quite tiny so it wouldnt work out well.


(Sample14)
padded satin stitch using cotton perle thread below embroidery thread in antique black. the metal dmc threads dont rest well. though i feel like the shine of the thread would be vital.


(sample15)
tried using machine embroidery stitches which turned out horrid.

redrew the diamond shapes as the previous one in the first project was not mathematically drawn in a right way that would be easy for filling in. also increased scale







tried using triangle filling stitch with cotton pearle yarns which i think is the smoothest yarn which is till fairly thick and appropriate to the effects i want to achieve. i really like how the diamond shape repeats within itself.


(sample16)
the final piece was on black cotton drill with cotton pearle so it's just a texture on the fabric, and despite its stuff graphic lines, the colour tones it down and especially as an all over print, its just a nice texture.

(sample17)
I arranged the diamonds so that its in a half drop arrangement like how it was on the original object, so its almost scale like and is more sophisticated. having less space between the shapes also gives the design more impact since its all closely placed




garment proposal
all over design on front and back except a single plain panel behind




center back with plain panel in same black drill to give contrast
____
continuation for proj 4

(sample18)
i tried using different coloured threads in the one above which i thought was pretty awful considering the white shows all the flaws of the sewing and the contrast of the lines takes away from the design , then tried usingthe metallic threads just to hold the threads down so there is a wee bit of metallic in it but it doesnt seem obvious enough so I will stick to the black on black in project 3.